
Late Victorians began to contemplate a bold, astonishing idea: that perhaps women might simply be free to dress… freely.
GIVING IS LOVING
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Amidst an unlikely confederation of physicians, clothing designers, teetotalers, feminists, sexologists, actors & artists, the wild notion that women might dress freely found its most eloquent proponent in Oscar Wilde.
His essay ‘The Philosophy Of Dress’ forms the centerpiece of this thoroughly researched text and uniquely riveting collection of writings on dress and fashion.
Extravagantly designed and copiously illustrated, this fascinating book will be of profound interest not just to Wildeans and students of fashion, but also to anyone interested in aesthetics, beauty and freedom.




Publisher’s Note
Exquisite, doomed, bursting with zeal for aesthetic culture and subversive longings – the design of this book sprouted and bloomed under the animating spirit of The Chameleon magazine. It imparted to our work its distinctive characteristics: lavish margins, an abundance of white space, elegant drop caps, and graceful Chiswick ornaments. Such was its sway that when stumped or confounded, the application of what came to be called “the strict Chameleon” would always produce the most harmonious and beautiful result. The type is set throughout in Caslon, which was once historically reserved for ecclesiastical & devotional works; it was embraced by the aesthetes and their circle of printers and publishers as a way of underscoring their equally religious devotion to the ideals of “art & beauty.” Our choice of Caslon is in fidelity to that same spirit. Gratitude is also due to Somersault Letterpress, who indulged our preference for “Yellow Books” with a gorgeously crafted letterpressed cover, with die-cuts taken from French dressmakers’ curves; and thanks, as ever, to our partners at Bookmobile for another beautifully printed and bound book. In 2013, I was buyer #37 of the original bibliophile edition of this book; today I’m especially proud to bring this revised, expanded, important and enduringly relevant work into wider release. Enjoy deeply.
— DAN SHEPELAVY, July 2025
© John Cooper/Dan Shepelavy, 2025.